Houndstooth: from humble origins to the most important fashion runways

The brief history of one of the season's most fashionable fabrics

Of Scottish origin, the famous two-tone pattern has become an evergreen and a must-have in all its variations in the wardrobe over the years.

Everyone, sooner or later, ends up owning a garment made with Houndstooth fabric. Elegant, a constant protagonist of the seasons, especially winter ones, the 'chicken paw' fabric can be considered, to all intents and purposes, an evergreen fabric that never goes out of style.

But where did the black and white checked fabric originate, and what does it owe this particular name to? Well, Houndstooth originated in Scotland, in the last centuries before the so-called 'year zero', and is so named because of the similarity of the weave to actual chicken paws. This fabric, made from woven wool cloths, was very popular among Scottish shepherds not only because its thickness helped them cope with extremely cold winters, but also because it allowed them to blend in with the environment, and not only: in addition to the aforementioned purposes, the 'shepherd's check' also had a social function, since the famous Tartans indicated the family of origin of those who wore them.

The 'hound's tooth', as it is also called, could not fail to capture the attention first of the aristocracy – think of Edward VIII, Prince of Wales, who brought this fabric to prominence in the early 1900s – and, subsequently, of the most established designers: indeed, Christian Dior chose this pattern for the creation of Miss Dior, a pivotal perfume of the fashion house… up to the present day. Oscar de la Renta, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Balmain and several other authoritative designers make Houndstooth a chic, sophisticated fabric, playing with colors and the size of the pattern on coats, long and short dresses, maxi and mini skirts, shoes, bags and accessories.

From the 90s to today, the "chicken paw" fabric has never left the runways and is cyclically re-proposed in ever new guises, in a fusion of past and present. Versatile and colorful, Houndstooth can undoubtedly be considered a Pop fabric, protagonist and witness to the passage of time.